April 19, 2011

Native Americans: Absence of Place


I had the pleasure of going to my very first cub scouts adventure with my six year old son this past year.  It led us to the Cherokee Tribe of St. George, GA.  I have always been enamored by Native American culture: art, music and rituals, but had never actually been among natives to see it. 

We were invited by the tribe to be a part of their Pow Wow, a ritual that is very important to their culture. It took place in a large open circle outdoors, with wooden benches around the edges.  The Cherokee members told us how this circle was sacred to them, that it was their “church” in which they would pray to their ancestors and celebrate life.  They dressed in their finest native garb, rhythmically drumming in the center and raising their voices in song.  Dancers would enter into the circle one by one after waving incense on to them with fans made from feathers. They would continue to move around in the circle with the dances of their bands. It was quite intriguing and rewarding to watch. 

It's a strange thought though, to be among their ancestors and see how little is left really.   I could not help but envision this ritual as it once was. Perhaps similarly, but out on rich landscape with the earth as their spirit guides. It is all too easy to forget the realities, that before there were American’s (from other countries), there were native tribes all across America.  I had to then compare it to this small chunk of land right next to an old rickety railroad track with a train roaring by so often and to the crowding tourists coming to watch and learn, but also to shop at the vendors set up around camp.
               
I was blown away by the beautiful art. It was a chance to learn about how Natives once lived. There was something really great about the ceremonies and acceptance of us but I was left feeling some strangeness in looking on at it as well. This gathering of people from all around took the form of some spectacle that is detached from the rest of society.   I can only ask myself, is this what they would have become had it not been for our ancestors brutal takeovers?  I know that once the West was “won” and things calmed down to a degree, to survive as Native Americans they had to become a part of the scene. They really didn't have much choice but to be a part of the tourism. The Ken Burns documentary about The National Parks explains how Native American's would dress up for Americans to come. They were given leeway by being a part of the cultural surroundings (but not owning any of it). For example, Travelers would gawk over their clothing, long hair and feathers in places like the Grand Canyon. Their presence made the attraction seem more 'authentic'. Part of the reason for the native American's willingness to do this was to try to make peace among the new settlers once their lot was lost.  It wasn’t exactly what one would call fair. In fact it further stripped them. 

It was not the first Indian Reservation I had been to, I went to a music festival on the Big Cypress Indian reservation in the Everglades.  The land was absolutely beautiful and there was not a building in sight for miles. It was breathtaking to see land almost as if it had been untouched by time.  Of course, not until we came to the camp grounds, where thousands of cars and people camped.  So this now brings to mind another question. Why are these sacred lands also a part of events that come and either take over the land or bring spectators to view?  I’m not sure that the answer is an uncomplicated one, as I am sure that finances have a part in it, among other things.  Still it makes one wonder what this 'otherness' must feel like to these minorities, from the inside looking out.  It seems that many see Native American grounds as a sort of ‘stage’.  

I can’t help but feel bad then that I am a part of the crowd. 
            
Personally, I feel Native American culture is one of the few cultures that fully embrace the beauty of the earth and its inhabitants as well as having respect in the cycle of life.  Animals are respected, as is the land. They use art, dance and music as a means of prayer and communication.  It seems to me that while they understand something about life so many don’t even see, their tribes have non-the-less, dwindled down into the corners of America-- like an endangered species. Like a shadow.  

While I was sitting and watching this ceremony in this giant grass circle take place, I kept thinking this is the type of church I would want to go to. This is a community I would like to be a part of. The reality is however, it’s not very easy to be a part of because there are so few places for it now. These reservations are far and few between and that, to me, is very unfortunate because there is so much to learn from this amazing, but dwindling culture. We should want to keep it alive and want to be a part of it. Mostly, we should somehow give back to the people who lost all their land. Not just say we understand it was wrong and appease our countries guilt by giving them the small bouts of land no-one wants. This colorful culture deserves more than a gesture, it deserves its place. 
              
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